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Showing posts with label Restaurants. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Restaurants. Show all posts

Tuesday, June 7, 2011

What’s the secret of Jaemark’s goodness?




The Jaemark's tail of the tuna: "Pata without the fat!"






Joseph and Jaemark's has an almost 20-year history spotted with various locations and name changes but what's essential has remained the same, thankfully. Reborn at its latest (and hopefully last) location, it's now called Joseph & Jaemark's Family Grill. This is perhaps my favorite seafood-slash-grill (ihaw) restaurant because of one thing: the buntot ng tuna (tuna tail).

It's no pretty dish, but the tail section is the most flavorful part of the fish, offering up a near-comprehensive catalog of textures. Though the menu says it's "…pata minus the fat!" I'm not wont to believe it. With a thundering crispness that echoes in the brain and eardrums, the tail is really just a lot of fish skin and cartilage. If you savor the succulent stickiness of callos, the ooze of bone marrow, or the lip-smacking unctuousness of kare-kare, then you'll love this crispy buntot.

Joseph & Jaemark's specializes in Filipino grill food, especially tuna . Try the panga (jaw) and the tiyan (belly) — each differs in flavor and texture. Depending on which part of the jaw you end up getting, there's usually a v-shaped soft bone cutting through the meat: the closer to the bone, the sweeter and more silken is the meat. There's a prominent smokiness that runs through the panga, intersecting with salty on various bites.





Grilled Tuna Belly at Jaemarks


You also can't go wrong with the blue marlin, it scintillates in its amber hue, a sheen shinywith soy sauce and sugar. It cuts like a steak but is softer.




The blue marlin cuts like a steak, but is softer.



Because Jaemark's is — at its core — a grill place, there are no wrong choices here when it comes to grilled food. The grilled gindara is done well as is the grilled squid. I love, love, love the pork sisig which strikes an exceptional balance between pork bits and pork head. It's so good that I don't even need to add my customary liquid seasoning and calamansi. Should you insist on eating greens, the green mango salad or the grilled eggplant with tomatoes, onions, and bagoong should suffice. I like the Bicol Express too. And for god's sake, don't forget the requisite two cups of rice! Get the garlic rice which is mixed in margarine and topped with garlic chips.

One last word: Though Jaemark's tuna is excellent on its own, the secret is in the sauce.


Once you've placed your order, you'll be given two bowls, each with a different sauce. The first is a traditional sawsawan of vinegar, soy sauce, sugar, chilies, and chopped onions. The second is what made Jaemark's famous, aside from their tuna, of course. It's a special concoction of soy sauce, vinegar, brown sugar, and margarine, the brand of which was revealed to me way back in the mid-90s, but which I'll let you figure out on your own.

Joseph & Jaemark's Family Grill
#5 Sgt. Esguerra Street, South Triangle, Quezon City
(2) 410-TUNA (410-8662)


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Monday, June 6, 2011

Philippine restaurant seeks to feed the soul




In the Philippines' only Catholic-themed restaurant, Sister Evangeline Paras aims to enrich the soul as much as excite the palate.

As head chef, the Theresian nun oversees operations at the Ristorante delle Mitre (Restaurant of the Mitre) and a menu made in honour of the Catholic church's bishops but priced to suit all members of the flock.

The restaurant, which opened last year, aims to bring the church closer to the people in Asia's bastion of Catholicism at a time when controversies such as sexual abuse scandals have alienated many believers.

"We want to show the positive side of the church... I consider this another ministry of the church," Paras told AFP amid frenzied cooking by her five assistants in the well-lit kitchen.

"It also gives you a glimpse of how the priests and bishops live, what they do and how they eat."

In the dining area, waiters move quickly between tables, explaining the story behind each dish on the menu to an eclectic crowd, from labourers and unionists in casual clothes to smartly-dressed bankers.

Several hearing and speech-impaired workers under the restaurant's equal opportunities programme also engage diners with animated hand gestures.

Hanging on the walls are photographs in sepia of the church's past and present bishops and cardinals, as well as various memorabilia celebrating Catholicism in the Philippines.

A pianist plays "Amazing Grace", a popular Christian hymn written by English clergyman John Newton in the 18th Century.

The soothing music envelopes the restaurant in a religious ambiance that is occasionally broken by the clanking of utensils and the muffled voices of orders being barked in the kitchen.

The name of the restaurant is derived from bishops' hats that are their symbol of authority.

The glass-encased mitres of three late Filipino prelates nominated for beatification are displayed in a corner, while a bookcase full of religious tomes offers diners a history of the Catholic Church in the Philippines.

A life-sized mannequin in a cardinal's vestments stares from a corner, towering over an altar with statues of the baby Jesus and Mother Mary.

"There is a certain charm to the idea that you are eating at a blessed place," said Marissa Castro, 28, a banker based in Australia who was paying her third visit to the restaurant since coming back home for a holiday.

"It certainly is a unique restaurant."

Businesswoman Elvira Go, who collaborated with the church to put up the restaurant, said the place was conceptualised when she and some bishop friends went on a pilgrimage to the Vatican several years ago.

They had frequented a small cafe where the clergy went, and the idea of putting up a similar place in Manila stuck.

The Philippines is the most obvious place in Asia to set up such a restaurant, with about 80 percent of the country's 94 million people Catholic thanks to its former status as Spanish colony,

Go's intention was just to put up a small canteen at the Catholic Bishops Conference of the Philippines building located inside the old Itramuros Spanish fortress of Manila.

But the plan soon got the endorsement of the bishops conference's 120 members, some of whom asked friends to donate their time and services to the project.

With no previous experience running a restaurant, Go said the biggest challenge was the menu -- the bishops stated that the food must be affordable to the common labourer without sacrificing quality.

"But one night when the bishops were having dinner, the holy spirit suddenly gave me inspiration," Go said.

"So I went around the table and asked everyone what their favourite dishes were, and I was struck at how simple and doable they were."

The result was an interesting mix of dishes with diverse influences, from Italian-inspired pasta to a fusion of Asian, Western and uniquely Filipino food.

Among the favourites is salmon in tamarind stew, crispy pork legs deep fried to a golden brown and other Filipino fare with prices ranging from 100 pesos to 500 pesos (two to 11 dollars).

A 35-peso (less than a dollar) budget meal set is also offered, which will give one two dishes plus rice and the day's chosen drink.

But there are also pricey set meals which include a selection of soups, salads, steaks, pasta and seafoods from prawns to lobsters.

Ice creams, breads, pizzas and pastries are also freshly made in a backroom bakery.

Overseeing all the food is Paras, formerly the personal cook of Archbishop Ricardo Cardinal Vidal, one of the country's most senior spiritual leaders, who agreed to place her on loan to the restaurant.

The portly nun with an easy-going manner came from a small family in the impoverished island province of Marinduque, where she earned a degree in home economics from a local college.

Paras, 37, became a nun in 1991 and a decade later was asked to manage a religious retreat house, where her impressive cooking skills caught the attention of the cardinal.

"Cooking for God's people has always been my calling," Paras said.

She honed her craft by poring over cookbooks and experimenting on a fusion of local and international dishes.

"You just have to cook with passion, with your whole heart and prepare every dish as you would for your loved ones," she said.




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